Went down Saturday midday, since I had to pick up my stolen and recovered bike from the police station prior to leaving. Arrived about 3 pm, and got onto the water about 4, just as Juan and Rick were considering packing up. My presence inspired them to keep going, and Gen to get back out after a long sleep in their van. She had had a hard time in the cross-off conditions and big waves, but it had turned more cross and the waves had thus dropped a bit. Good for me.
But it's not so easy - on the 5.5m with 91l, it was hard to get out the back. In fact, I only made it once, and then scared myself to death with the size of the swell! Exhilarating but not exactly easy. Retired after about an hour, but thoughtful.
After a good night, involving curry, beer and a surprisingly good rockabilly band in the White Lion, went out on the 5.5 and 91l again. Was better prepared this time, and had significantly improved my waterstarting in rough conditions. Also got much more aggressive with the board and sail, pumping my t*ts off at one point. Works well! Loosened the footstraps too, so it was easy to get feet in and out - with waves you need flexibility and rapid stance changes, nothing is fixed for a moment. A wonderful discipline. Finally got out the back and came in on a HUGE swell, that just kept going up and up and up - can't remember where it eventually went, but guess it must have gone somewhere because I'm sitting at home recalling this, not on top of the wave. Totally totally addictive. Want more, lots more. And it's easy to get - I can see now why people drive to Devon instead of the South Coast - it was only 3.5 hours back in heavy traffic! And now I know I can do it... Although I have to practise manoeuvres a lot more.
